FAQ

Registering My New Puppy’s Microchip

To ensure proper information and the ability to update your contact information with the national microchip database, please click HERE to register your new Goldendoodle puppy with AKC’s Companion Animal Recovery Database.

Puppy Stage

The apple doesn’t fall far from the tree, especially for dogs. The fact is, well-socialized dogs are more likely to have well-socialized puppies. Pups often mirror their mothers’ calm or fearful attitude toward people; this is a normal part of their socialization. But you can play a vital role, too, by petting, talking, and playing with puppy to help him develop good “people skills.”

Puppies are usually weaned at six to seven weeks, but are still learning important skills as their mother gradually leaves them for longer periods of time. Ideally, puppies should stay with their littermates (or other “role-model” dogs) for at least 7-8 weeks. Puppies separated from their littermates too early often fail to develop appropriate “social skills,” such as learning how to send and receive signals, what an “inhibited bite” (acceptable mouthing pressure) means, how far to go in play-wrestling, and so forth. Play is important for puppies because it increases their physical coordination, social skills, and learning limits. By interacting with their mother and littermates, puppies explore the ranking process (“who’s in charge”) and also learn “how to be a dog.” Skills not acquired during the first eight weeks may be lost forever. While these stages are important and fairly consistent, a dog’s mind remains receptive to new experiences and lessons well beyond puppyhood. Most dogs are still puppies, in mind and body, through the first two years of life

Here are general guidelines for puppies’ stages of development:

Birth to Two Weeks: Neonatal Period
Puppy is most influenced by his mother. Senses of touch and taste are present at birth.
Two to Four Weeks: Transitional Period
Puppy is most influenced by his mother and littermates. Eyes open, teeth begin to come in, and senses of hearing and smell develop. Puppy begins to stand, walk a little, wag tail, and bark. By the fourth or fifth week, eyesight is well-developed.
Three to Twelve Weeks: Socialization Period
During this period, puppy needs opportunities to meet other dogs and people. By 3 to 5 weeks, puppy becomes aware of his surroundings, companions (both canine and human), and relationships, including play. By 4 to 6 weeks, puppy is most influenced by littermates and is learning about being a dog. From 4 to 12 weeks, puppy remains influenced by littermates and is also influenced by people. Puppy learns to play, develops social skills, learns the inhibited bite, explores social structure/ranking, and improves physical coordination. By 5 to 7 weeks, puppy develops curiosity and explores new experiences. Puppy needs positive “people” experiences during this time. By 7 to 9 weeks, puppy is refining his physical skills and coordination, and can begin to be housetrained. Puppy has full use of senses. By 8 to 10 weeks, puppy experiences real fear involving normal objects and experiences; puppy needs positive training during this time. By 9 to 12 weeks, puppy is refining reactions, developing social skills with littermates (appropriate interactions), and exploring the environment and objects. Puppy begins to focus on people; this is a good time to begin training.
Three to Six Months: Ranking Period
Puppy is most influenced by “playmates,” which may now include those of other species. Puppy begins to see and use ranking (dominance and submission) within the household (the puppy’s “pack”), including humans. Puppy begins teething (and associated chewing). At 4 months of age, puppy experiences another fear stage.
Six to Eighteen Months: Adolescence
Puppy is most influenced by human and dog “pack” members. At seven to nine months, puppy goes through a second chewing phase, part of exploring territory. Puppy increases exploration of dominance, including challenging humans. If not spayed or neutered, puppy experiences beginnings of sexual behavior.Copyright © 2004 The Humane Society of the United States.
House Training Your Goldendoodle

Contrary to popular belief, housetraining a puppy requires far more than a few stacks of old newspapers—it calls for vigilance, patience, and plenty of commitment. By following the procedures outlined below, you can minimize house soiling incidents, but virtually every puppy will have an accident in the house, and more likely, several. Expect this—it’s part of raising a puppy. The more consistent you are in following the basic housetraining procedures, however, the faster your puppy will learn acceptable behavior. It may take several weeks to housetrain your puppy, and with some of the smaller breeds, it might take longer.

Like babies, puppies do best on a regular schedule. Take your puppy outside frequently—at least every two hours—and immediately after he wakes up from a nap, after playing, and after eating or drinking. Praise your puppy lavishly every time he eliminates outdoors—you can even give him a treat—but remember to do so immediately after he’s finished eliminating, not after he comes back inside the house. This step is vital, because rewarding your dog for eliminating outdoors is the only way he’ll know what’s expected of him.

Pick a bathroom spot near the door, and always take your puppy to that spot using a leash. Take him out for a longer walk or some playtime only after he has eliminated. If you clean up an accident in the house, take the soiled rags or paper towels and leave them in the bathroom spot. The smell will help your puppy recognize the area as the place he is supposed to eliminate. While your puppy is eliminating, use a word or phrase, like “go potty,” that you can eventually use before he eliminates to remind him what to do.

Put your puppy on a regular feeding schedule and feed a high-quality diet to make housetraining easier. Depending on their age, puppies usually need to be fed three or four times a day. Feeding your puppy at the same times each day will make it more likely that he’ll eliminate at consistent times as well, and that makes housetraining easier for both of you.

Keep Your Eyes Peeled
Don’t give your puppy an opportunity to soil in the house; keep an eye on him whenever he’s indoors. You can tether him to you with a six-foot leash, or use baby gates to keep him in the room where you are. Watch for signs that he needs to eliminate, like sniffing around or circling. When you see these signs, immediately grab the leash and take him outside to his bathroom spot. If he eliminates, praise him lavishly and reward him with a treat.
Confinement
When you’re unable to watch your puppy at all times, he should be confined to an area small enough that he won’t want to eliminate there. The space should be just big enough for him to comfortably stand, lie down, and turn around in. You can use a portion of a bathroom or laundry room blocked off with baby gates. Or you may want to crate train your puppy and use the crate to confine him. (Be sure to learn how to use a crate humanely as a method of confinement.) If your puppy has spent several hours in confinement, you’ll need to take him directly to his bathroom spot as soon as you let him out, and praise him when he eliminates.
Oops!
Expect your puppy to have a few accidents in the house—it’s a normal part of housetraining. Here’s what to do when that happens:
When you catch him in the act of eliminating in the house, do something to interrupt him, like make a startling noise (be careful not to scare him). Immediately take him to his bathroom spot, praise him, and give him a treat if he finishes eliminating there.Don’t punish your puppy for eliminating in the house. If you find a soiled area, it’s too late to administer a correction. Just clean it up. Rubbing your puppy’s nose in it, taking him to the spot and scolding him, or any other punishment will only make him afraid of you or afraid to eliminate in your presence. In fact, punishment will often do more harm than good.

Cleaning the soiled area is very important because puppies are highly motivated to continue soiling in areas that smell like urine or feces.

It’s extremely important that you use the supervision and confinement procedures outlined above to prevent the number of accidents. If you allow your puppy to eliminate frequently in the house, he’ll get confused about where he’s supposed to eliminate, which will prolong the housetraining process.

Paper Training
A puppy under six months of age cannot be expected to control his bladder for more than a few hours at a time. If you have to be away from home more than four or five hours a day, this may not be the best time for you to get a puppy; instead, you may want to consider an older dog, who can wait for your return.But if you’re already committed to having a puppy and must be away for long periods of time, you’ll need to make arrangements for someone, such as a responsible neighbor or a professional pet sitter, to take him outside to eliminate. Or you’ll need to train him to eliminate in a specific place indoors. Be aware, however, that doing so can prolong the process of housetraining. Teaching your puppy to eliminate on newspaper may create a life-long surface preference, meaning that even as an adult he may eliminate on any newspaper lying around the living room.When your puppy must be left alone for long periods of time, confine him to an area with enough room for a sleeping space, a playing space, and a separate place to eliminate. In the area designated as the elimination area, use either newspapers or a sod box. To make a sod box, place sod in a container such as a child’s small, plastic swimming pool. You can also find dog litter products at a pet supply store. If you clean up an accident in the house, put the soiled rags or paper towels in the designated elimination area. The smell will help your puppy recognize the area as the place where he is supposed to eliminate.

Other Types of House-Soiling Problems
If you’ve consistently followed the housetraining procedures and your puppy continues to eliminate in the house, there may be another reason for his behavior, such as…
Medical Problems:
House soiling can often be caused by physical problems such as a urinary tract infection or a parasite infection. Check with your veterinarian to rule out any possibility of disease or illness.
Submissive/Excitement Urination:
Some dogs, especially young ones, temporarily lose control of their bladders when they become excited or feel threatened. This usually occurs during greetings or periods of intense play, or when they’re about to be punished. Territorial Urine-Marking: Dogs sometimes deposit small amounts of urine or feces to scent-mark their territory. Both male and female dogs do this, and it most often occurs when they believe their territory has been invaded.
Separation Anxiety:
Dogs who become anxious when they’re left alone may house soil as a result. Usually, there are other symptoms as well, such as destructive behavior or vocalization.
Fears or Phobias:
When animals become frightened, they may lose control of their bladder and/or bowels. If your puppy is afraid of loud noises, such as thunderstorms or fireworks, he may house soil when he’s exposed to these sounds.

Copyright © 2004 The Humane Society of the United States.

Male vs Female

I get so many calls a day saying “Oh I have just got to have one of your FEMALE Goldendoodles” sometime I just want to scream “Just what is wrong with a little boy?”

Little boys are usually more obedient…loyal…. loving…. and eager to please Neutered males (age 4-6 months) will not do those nasty little boy things like hiking on the furniture as the hormones will not have the chance to come down.

Little boys tend to love the entire family where a little girl will get her favorite and stick to that person most often…. they are also more territorial. Any breeder will tell you not to get 2 females…but it is perfectly fine to have 2 males…kind of tells you something there.

Don’t take just my word for any of it, call your vet, call other breeders, and ask for their opinion.

Breed Information

A Goldendoodle is a cross-breed dog obtained by breeding a Golden Retriever with a Poodle.  The name was coined in 1992.  The original purpose of the cross was to attempt to develop guide dogs suitable for visually impaired individuals with allergies.

The Goldendoodle is usually bred to be a family companion dog and suits families with dog allergies.  Some are bred for careers in service to humans as guide dog, therapy dogs, or other types of assistance dogs.  Because Poodles and Golden Retrievers are both highly intelligent, Goldendoodles too, are very trainable. Goldendoodles are usually very affectionate with people and other pets.  They are human-oriented dogs, and tend to develop a strong bond with their owners and companions.  Most Goldendoodles are calm and easy going, but they are active dogs that do require exercise.  Goldendoodle are known to be especially good with children.

A person may select a Goldendoodle because he or she loves golden retrievers, but would prefer a dog that sheds less hair.

Some breeders create F1b, F2, and F3 Goldendoodles.  Following the laws of genetics, this explains why these Goldendoodles tend to be more like a Poodle or a Golden Retriever simply because of how the genes cross down.  A “true Goldendoodle” is a first generation – meaning the mother is a purebred Golden Retriever and the father is a purebred Poodle.  Our Goldendoodles at are true first generation Goldendoodles!

F1 vs F1b vs F2 vs F3, etc. Which to adopt?!

Some breeders create F1b, F2, and F3, etc Goldendoodles.  Following the laws of genetics, this explains why these Goldendoodles tend to be more like a Poodle or a Golden Retriever simply because of how the genes pass down.  A “true Goldendoodle” is a first generation – meaning the mother is a purebred Golden Retriever and the father is a purebred Poodle.  Our Goldendoodles are true first generation Goldendoodles!

What is the Health+ Program?

We took much time in waiting for the “right” parents to come around in selecting the parents of your future Goldendoodle.  A cheap puppy now could mean expensive vet bills later down it’s life and put the family member in pain.  Although we can’t guarantee you won’t have to go the the vet with such problems, there is less of a chance such would happen, as we’ve chosen genetics that have been OFA (hip) tested and CERF (eye) tested.

Microchip?

Our Goldendoodle puppies come to you with the option of being pre-microchipped.  This is a great way of having permanent form of identification on your new family member in case they might get lost or stolen.  Some people don’t like having their puppy microchipped, therefore we leave it out unless you request it being done.  If you do request it, we need to know a minimum of one week prior to him or her going home to you.  This is done free of charge ($45 value).  Once your puppy has arrived home, you will need to register them with AKC’s Companion Animal Recovery Database located HERE.